Sparkling Subversion
The History of Champagne
You might not believe it, but there once was a time when Champagne was synonymous with still winemaking. The regions greatest competition was not that of the supermarket supersavers of Prosecco and Cava or the up-and-coming English scene, but instead of its neighbouring regions, such as Burgundy. In fact, during this time, bubbles in wine were seen as a fault, something that occurred most-sporadically, to the soundtrack of bursting bottles. As you can imagine, due to the painstaking craftsmanship of making glass at the time, it was a phenomena that winemakers actively avoided.
So, how are bubbles created? To keep the explanation simple, after the wine has completed fermentation and been bottled, the yeasts begin to feed on the sugars again, further creating alcohol and carbon dioxide as a by-product that is then trapped, forming beads of bubbles in the wine. This, of course, now-a-days is a very controlled procedure and understood craft, most-often prompted by the addition of yeast and sugar.
Considering this catastrophe, the myth of the almost saint-like blind monk Dom Pérignon and his ‘invention’ of sparkling wine, might have to be questioned. It is true that he made wine at the time, but it was mostly spent preventing bubbles, rather than creating them. In fact, the origins of sparkling wine (deliberately) can be traced back some hundred years prior, circa the mid-1500s, to the little-known region of Limoux in the south-west of France, in a monastery nestled in the foothills of the Pyrenees.
Sparkling Champagne, despite its misunderstood (and misrepresented) origins, took hold in the late 17th Century and was used as a much-needed point of difference in the global wine scene.
Champagne as a Brand
Champagne is not just a drink; it’s an institution, a beacon of luxury and celebration. From its gilded labels to its place at the most glamorous occasions, Champagne has cultivated an image that transcends its liquid contents. But how did this happen?
For centuries, Champagne has been synonymous with extravagance. The aristocracy of 18th-century France championed its fizzy charm, and by the 19th century, Champagne was a staple at royal courts across Europe. The allure was intentional - houses like Moët & Chandon and Veuve Clicquot marketed Champagne not merely as wine but as a symbol of sophistication, wealth, and exclusivity. Over time, Champagne’s reputation as a luxury product became its defining feature, overshadowing its roots as an agricultural product. It became a drink that defined the moment as much as it was defined by it.
The rise of major Champagne houses, or grandes marques, solidified the region's reputation. These producers, controlling vast networks of growers, began purchasing grapes from across Champagne’s terroirs to create blends that prioritised the brand’s consistency over individual vineyards' unique expressions. For the average consumer, purchasing Champagne became more about trust in a name - Dom Pérignon, Krug, Bollinger etc - than understanding the nuances of where the grapes were grown or how the wine was made. This branding was brilliant but came at a cost: the diversity of Champagne's terroir was lost under the weight of corporate blending and mass production.
The hallmark of the grandes marques was their commitment to consistency. Each house aimed to produce a wine that tasted the same year after year, regardless of vintage variations. To achieve this, grapes from different regions, vineyards, and (in some cases) years were meticulously blended. While this approach ensured reliability, it also diluted the individual characteristics of Champagne’s varied terroirs. The resulting wines became masterpieces in their own right, yes, but also exercises in homogeneity. In many ways, they were more about the expertise of the cellar master than the voice of the land.
The Rise of the Growers
In recent decades, a quiet revolution has unfolded in Champagne, dubbed the ‘Grower Revolution.’ Unlike the big houses, grower-producers, manage every aspect of production themselves. They grow their own grapes, harvest and vinify them, then bottle the wine under their own labels.
This revolution began as a reaction to the dominance of the grandes marques. Visionary producers like Jacques Selosse and Jérôme Prévost pioneered a new perspective, in line with other regions across the globe also battling against mass production. Instead of selling their grapes for a reliable income, they decided to vinify them themselves, in their own way. Selosse introduced a uniquely oxidative approach to winemaking to the region, while Prévost demonstrated the potential of, the then mere seasoning variety, Meunier. This shift aligned with a growing demand for authenticity, as consumers sought wines with a deeper connection to the land and the man that tends to it. The movement’s success has since subsequently inspired a new generation of growers, transforming Champagne from a region of companies, to a region of artisans.
The Terroir
Champagne’s geography is as varied as its wines (can be), encompassing five main subregions and seven permitted grape varieties.
The Five Departments
Montagne de Reims: Known for its Pinot Noir, this area produces wines with structure and intensity.
Vallée de la Marne: Dominated by Meunier, it offers fruity, approachable wines.
Côte des Blancs: Home to some of the world’s finest Chardonnay, yielding elegant and mineral-driven Champagnes.
Côte de Sézanne: A lesser-known region with Chardonnay that is softer and more fruit-forward.
Côte des Bar: Located further south, this area is Pinot Noir territory, producing wines with bold flavours and a round mouthfeel.
The Seven Grapes
Chardonnay
Pinot Noir
Meunier
Arbane
Petit Meslier
Pinot Blanc
Pinot Gris
For decades, Champagne’s diversity was use to great something greater than the sum of its parts. However, growers are changing this narrative, by bottling wines that showcase specific terroirs or mono-varietals, encouraging consumers to think of Champagne not as a monolithic luxury product but as a wine with as much complexity and variation potential as Burgundy.
Champagne as a Wine
This momentous movement is also helping to reframe Champagne as, first-and-foremost, a wine. In fact, for many producers, bubbles are used as a supporting actor rather than the star of the show, prioritising texture, structure, and flavour complexity, with just an accent of effervescence to carry this through. A common descriptive Sommeliers often use for this style of Champagne is ‘vinous,’ essentially ‘wine-like’ and is most often considered a noble quality. The best way to distinguish traditional fizz from its more serious counterparts is to allow the perlage to dissipate, it is then you will find if their purpose was to make or to mask.
Aligning with this change in perspective, many wine-focussed bars and restaurants are now serving Champagne in regular, wider-rimmed wine glasses. This allows the wine to be swirled and sipped just like any other, further enhancing its time for deliberate appreciation. Along with this, Sommeliers are advocating the style as a gastronomic pairing, rather than a simple aperitif, suggesting more possibilities than the classic mineral-driven Blanc de Blancs to wash down a briny-oyster; perhaps a decadently rich red-fruited sparkling Pinot to liven some juicy duck? By treating Champagne as a style of wine, rather than a separate bubbly beverage, we consumers have the power to shine the light on the good stuff and redefine its rightful role at the table.
The Future
Champagne has long been a drink of celebration, but thanks to the grower movement, it is now being celebrated for its own merits. These winemakers are reminding the world that Champagne is not just a luxury brand but a diverse, terroir-driven wine region with centuries of history and craftsmanship behind it. As we raise our glasses to toast life’s milestones, perhaps it’s time to toast the growers who are redefining what Champagne can be.
Stay tuned as I embark on a pilgrimage to visit the vines and meet the growers that glitter…